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8.09.2019

Cydil Takes a Cooking Class


Today I learned how to make one of my favorite traditional Albanian dishes. You know, the kind of homemade food someone brings you when you have been sick or had a baby or are partaking in a potluck. It's nothing you really can get in a restaurant.

My friend Mira is an experienced cook with a generous heart. Last night I got a message with an invitation to come up to her home for a lesson this morning. We made this in about two hours in spite of multiple interruptions -- she's the village nurse and had to slip out to treat someone, took a consult on her porch about allergy meds for someone else, and had two condolence drop -in visits (her father passed away about 3 weeks ago).

I'm slow on the InstaStory train but took videos of each step and posted ingredients, amounts, and instructions. I've saved it to my profile so it doesn't disappear after the usual 24-hour window. Hopefully this link will work! https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/17859162817478611/
My profile name is simply 'cydil'


The finished product is called (in English) meat, tomato and onion pie. In Albanian it's known as byrek me domate dhe qep. Mira generously uses fresh mint, which I've grown to enjoy, but may be the most unusual aspect of this dish for an American palate. You could omit it, but I think it would lose what makes it distinctly Albanian! (Albanian cooks employ lots of local, fresh (and dried, in the off season) herbs like oregano, mint, dill, basil, sage, etc.) A good bit of the work in this recipe is making the crust. You can easily substitute store-bought filo/phyllo pastry. Enjoy!


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When I arrived, Mira had moved this portable burner to her shaded front porch. It was 9AM and already very warm -- there was no sense bringing more heat into the house! Here she is throwing about half a pound of ground beef into a skillet of oil to cook.


Then she added four chopped onions to the skillet.  It immediately smelled like many an Albanian kitchen window I have passed by on the street!


We walked over to a table where she was peeling and chopping four large tomatoes from our friend Bardha's garden. The tomatoes went into a strainer to drain any extra moisture that might make the pie soggy.


Next she dumped about 1/3 of a kilo bag of flour into a mixing bowl 


and added warm water to make a dough.


She split the dough into two balls, covered, and set in a warm cupboard to rest (though there is no yeast in this -- maybe it is self-rising flour?)

Then the tomatoes were added to the onions and beef.




She added a handful of chopped mint... what an aroma!  Albanians LOVE to use mint in their cooking.


We left the food simmering on the porch and went inside to work with the dough.


Notice the old wooden board above?  That belonged to her husband's great-grandmother and was more than 100 years old!  The bottom crust needs to be larger than the top crust so she used slightly more than half of the total dough and split it into 9 smaller balls.


Then we ran back to the porch and added about a cup of cooked rice to the beef, tomato and onion mixture to use as a thickener.


Back in the house... each ball is rolled out and brushed with oil before stacking to make a flaky, layered crust.


The nine layers are then rolled out into one, massive thin sheet of crust.


You can see the wooden board is a good judge to make sure the crust is getting to the correct size to fit into the round pie pan... (Albanians have traditionally baked in round pans -- not rectangular like I'm accustomed to having grown up in the USA).


...to then fit into the byrek pan


At this point Mira got interrupted so I jumped in to try my hand at rolling dough.


I forgot to mention that corn starch is sprinkled on each small disk of dough to keep the layers distinct and from sticking together at this stage.



Now back to the pie pan and bottom crust... time to add the filling!




So, apparently, at this point in the process alternating between my big camera and phone got too much and I failed to get photos of her folding the excess crust in over the filling, then adding the top crust.  You can see this on the insta story :-).

So we will skip ahead to Mira taking the assembled pie out to her portable oven.  These are very common in this part of the world. I assume it's also what is used for making baklava ?? Again, everything here is round.  Even the portable ovens!

It's pre-heated to 200 degrees celsius and baked for about 45 minutes, "depending on the strength of your electricity", she said.  If you don't know what that means, you've been privileged to live in a place with good electricity. Sometimes our power is so low, everything operates at a fraction of its typical capacity.  Lights are dimmer.  Ovens don't get as hot or take longer to reach their desired temperature.



When the crust is golden, turn off the heat and drain any of the excess oil (or absorb with paper towels).

Here it is finished! I wish you could smell the savory richness of the beef and onions mingled with the faintest hint of sweetness from the mint.
It's really yummy!


Incidentally, cheap Albanian 'street food' features slices of byrek. It will be sold by the slice and wrapped in wax paper. It typically does not include meat (to keep it economical) and can feature fillings like egg and cheese, spinach and egg, or tomato and onion.

I recommend reheating leftovers in the oven -- not the microwave -- to keep the crust from getting soggy.

8.06.2019

Reni Turned 10!


Wow, this child cannot possibly be ten years old already, right? Every year that passes give us greater glimpses into the person he is becoming.  Funny, confident, fiercely independent, sensitive, honest (sometimes too much!), creative, loud.... these all describe him.

His present plans for the future?  To go to university, room with his best friends, start a series of businesses (to be his own boss and become Albania's first automobile manufacturer), and live in America but have a vacation house over here.

His loves?  Burger King, Minecraft (or any video game), Star Wars, his friends, America, sports cars, Nerf guns, sports, super heroes, Greek mythology...

This past year he started reading chapter books, but that slowed down considerably when he finished a series and had no interest in investing in new characters. We're hoping that his love of reading might return if we can just find the right books...

For a very long time it has been his dream to share his birthday with one of his best buddies, Levi, whose birthday falls the day after Reni's.  For one day they are the exact same age.  This year we were so happy that it worked out for Levi's family to come visit us from their home in Kosovo.  Enjoy these photos of the day!


Above, the two birthday boys.
Below, Levi's brother, Caleb, joined in the "Flash" fun.  Reni falls right between them in age so all three boys do everything together.









Not much beats a good grilled burger!


Then later than night we celebrated with cake #2 (a cheesecake) for Levi and Tiffany, whose birthdays were the following day....


Reni, you are dearly loved by so many!  Don't ever forget that!


8.05.2019

Slower Summer Days

It's hard to put into words how dramatically schedules shift here, once school wraps up.  And this summer has felt a bit different as we didn't have any guests after the Texas team departed. 

Nevertheless we've stayed busy.  Nathan is on a few boards for local organizations that have required some extra attention this summer. We've also had some travel, though not altogether as a family. Then there is the matter of our residency permits which expire in August.  It's been so nice to have big chunks of time to devote to the document chase our renewals have required!

The following photos are some highlights that have transpired...


This spring a neighboring farm had an explosion of baby goats -- we finally got around to seeing them this summer.  I regret that we never made it over to see them when they were newborns. :-(


This boy still loves cucumbers as much as ever!  And they grow like crazy here!


This is Ellie, sleeping in the Vienna Airport during a five hour layover on our return to Albania from WGM meetings that I (Cydil) attended.  At some point you might be so tired you use used airline blankets left by someone else because 'they looked like clean people.'  Please, no comments on how unclean and unsafe this probably was.  To be honest, "bed bugs" or the like never even crossed my mind at the time...

Got a great welcome home by the boys....


Our old neighborhood in Tirana... someone knew it was America's birthday and hung the stars and stripes! :-)  It's so refreshing to find pro-American support here and there.


Bonus about going to America in late June: all sorts of July 4 swag to bring back to Albania!


We had dear friends over for a good ol' American cookout on July 4th followed by water games and sparklers!


This summer Nathan has given the lesson at church several times... as we're walking through the book of Acts, it's been conducive to teaching through the 'storying' method and helpful for noticing new details in these stories.


This summer as seen a LOT of nerf gun battles in our home!  I'm perpetually picking up little blue and orange bullets from under and behind furniture. Below, Reni is pictured with one of his two besties from the village, Flavio.  The Star Wars masks are not necessarily for protection, but probably a really good idea!


One of the best aspects of summer... the sun moves north and provides us with some fantastic sunsets!  (In the winter it sets behind a mountain and we miss it completely).


We have lost track of the number of days we have spent tracking down documents, searching for government offices, made copies and had our photos taken, all in the name of renewing our residency permit.  The last time we did this was five years ago and our grasp of the Albanian language has made huge strides since then, allowing us to feel much more independent in the process.  Yet, this application is different than last time and government offices have moved.  It's been a roller coaster of emotions thinking we've done something wrong or missed a deadline or had to find another way to meet a necessary criteria.  The photo below was taken while grabbing lunch at a favorite Asian fast food restaurant in Tirana.  It was a reward for the kids who tromped all over Tirana with us to go to just 'one more office' and a place to cool our heels while Nathan stood in line next door.  Reni is demonstrating his 'kung fu chops' (in honor of the name of the restaurant, as well as how we felt we were tackling our list!).


As the temperatures rose, interest in really active games at the center has declined, finding the boys preferring play in the shade.  That's fine with Reni who still loves a good game of chess!


Our regular programs have continued through July.  I just had to share this pic of an adorable boy holding an adorable craft.  Any guesses on the story? (That's a camel puppet)


Every weekend Tiffany spends the night out in the village with us.  After a long day of kids clubs and extra planning for our summer party she was all set to return to Tirana when she tossed her car keys on the front seat with her purse to go open the vehicle gate.  As soon as she closed the door to pass by the car, the electrical system triggered the door locks and locked her out for more than two hours!


Ellie has been reading up a storm, and still sits in her odd positions, just like she's done since she was little!  We bought this swing chair for her birthday to help provide her some of the sensory input she still seeks.  Many a day will find her out there swinging with a book or playing her ukulele.


On July 18 Nathan and I celebrated 20 years of marriage!  We found some cheap tickets last winter on a discount airline to a lesser-known city in a neighboring country and after securing childcare for the kids, took our first multi-night trip away from them in more than six years! Turns out discount airlines are "discount" for a reason, but we made it home, albeit a day later than originally planned!


One of the highlights (in addition to just having time away with my favorite travel buddy) was taking a cooking class together!


As we considered some different activities to do for Reni's birthday, we had to measure him to see if he met a minimum height requirement for a local gym.  We're crossing our fingers to see if he will be allowed to participate!  The tape measure is locked at 110cm, the minimum requirement.  He's obviously much shorter... it makes it challenging for him to join in on some favorite activities with his peers!


Albanian hair cuts are SHARP.  Here's Reni gettin' styled after his last trim.



Reni's birthday came at the end of July and his main request was to spend it with one of his best buddies, Levi, who has his own birthday the day after Reni's.  Levi's family was gracious enough to come all the way to Albania from western Kosova for two nights.  We had a cookout and two cakes and some water games, along with lots of conversation and games, which I will share in a separate post. 

Our tradition is to eat at a "Western" themed restaurant in Tirana -- one of the only places in the country to find a pulled-pork sandwich. 


And because you can't flush the toilet paper in Albania, this sign posted in the restaurant bathroom was especially amusing... It translates roughly, "Whoever throws tp in the toilet is a villager, not a cowboy." :-)


So there. 
(I wonder if they knew their customers that day were visiting from the village, ha ha).

Coming up.... Reni turns 10